Asphalt Fence Paint: How Black Farm Fence Coating Works and How to Apply It

Asphalt fence paint is a black, asphalt-based coating sold for wood board fences, barns, posts and other farm structures. It's popular because it's inexpensive per gallon, soaks into rough-sawn lumber, and gives the classic black horse-farm look while shedding water and slowing weathering. Some versions are asphalt emulsions (water-based) and some are solvent-based. Downsides include a strong odor with solvent types, a finish that can soften and feel tacky in heat, fading or chalking over time, and the fact that it's hard to paint over later with latex paints. It isn't a driveway sealer.

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What It's Made Of

• Asphalt for waterproofing and color
• Water and emulsifiers (water-based types) or solvents (solvent-based types)
• Fillers or additives in some products for body, UV resistance or mildew resistance

Read the label to see which kind you're buying; it affects cleanup, weather limits and odor.

Pros

• Low cost per gallon compared with many exterior paints and stains
• Penetrates rough, weathered wood
• Deep black color that hides wood defects and mismatched boards
• Sheds water and can slow checking and rot on exposed wood
• Easy to spray over long fence runs

Cons

• Black surfaces absorb heat; coated boards get hot in sun
• May feel tacky in very hot weather, especially with thick coats
• Can fade to brownish or chalky black over time
• Hard to cover with other paints later; asphalt can bleed through latex
• Solvent types have strong odor and are flammable
• Overspray on cars, siding and plants is difficult to remove

Where It Works Best

• Rough-sawn wood board fences, especially three- and four-board farm fences
• Barn siding and outbuildings where a black look is wanted
• Posts and the bottoms of boards near the ground
• Some metal surfaces such as gates, if the label allows

Horse owners should check the label for animal safety and let the coating cure fully before turnout, since horses chew fences.

Preparing the Fence

1. Remove dirt, cobwebs, loose fibers and mildew. A stiff brush or low-pressure wash works; let the wood dry afterward if the label calls for dry wood.
2. Replace rotten boards and set loose nails.
3. Trim grass and weeds along the fence line so you can coat the lower boards.
4. Cover anything nearby you don't want coated: cars, siding, plants and water troughs.

Applying It

Spraying

For long fences, an airless sprayer or a sturdy pump sprayer rated for thick coatings is fastest. Spray on calm days and back-brush if the label recommends it to work coating into the grain.

Brushing and rolling

A wide, stiff brush or a thick-nap roller pushes coating into rough lumber and gives better coverage on the first coat, though it's slower.

Coats and coverage

Rough, dry wood soaks up a lot; the first coat may need more material than the label's average coverage. A second coat evens color. To estimate gallons, calculate total surface area (board length × board width × number of boards × 2 sides, plus posts) and divide by the label's coverage per gallon. Our sealer calculator uses the same area-divided-by-coverage idea for driveways.

Drying and Weather

Apply within the temperature range on the label, avoid rain in the forecast, and remember that water-based products must not freeze before they cure. Cure times vary with temperature, humidity and thickness. Thin coats dry better than heavy ones.

Cleanup

Water-based types clean up with water while wet; solvent-based types need mineral spirits or the cleaner the label specifies. Dried asphalt coating is stubborn on skin and clothing; our tips for getting sealer off shoes and clothes apply to fence paint too. Wear old clothes and disposable gloves.

Can You Use Fence Paint on a Driveway?

No. Fence coatings aren't designed for foot and vehicle traffic, may stay slippery or tacky, and lack the fillers and durability of driveway sealers. For a driveway, choose a sealer made for pavement; our acrylic driveway sealer guide is a good start, and can you paint asphalt covers colored coatings.

Asphalt Coating vs Other Black Fence Finishes

Asphalt-based fence paint isn't the only way to get a black fence. Solid-color exterior stains and acrylic latex fence paints come in black, cost more per gallon, and are easier to recoat with other products later. Oil-based stains penetrate well and fade more gradually. Asphalt coatings win on price and on soaking into rough, weathered boards, which is why they remain popular for long runs of farm fence. If the fence is near a house or will ever be repainted a different color, a conventional stain or paint may be the better long-term choice.

Coating Posts Before Installation

Some people coat the portion of wood posts that goes into the ground, plus a few inches above grade, before setting them. A coating can slow moisture uptake, but it doesn't replace pressure-treated lumber rated for ground contact. If you coat posts, let the coating cure fully before setting them, and don't rely on it to rescue untreated wood in wet soil.

Maintenance

Expect to recoat every few years depending on sun exposure, climate and the product. Recoat when the black fades or wood starts showing through. Keep vegetation trimmed so boards dry after rain.

Bottom Line on Asphalt Fence Paint

Asphalt fence paint is an economical way to protect and blacken wood farm fences and outbuildings. Prep the wood, spray or brush it into the grain, apply thin coats in good weather, and keep it off anything you don't want permanently black. It's a fence and barn product, not a driveway sealer.